Monday, 5 December 2011

USIM FUN CAT SHOW 2011 - ''WE LOVE , WE CARE"

Kelab Kuching Malaysia
Cat Fun Show 2011

&

Petting Show
"WE LOVE, WE CARE"

Majlis Konvokesyen Ke-7
Universiti Sains Islam Malaysia
(USIM)
Date: 3rd December 2011
Venue: Gimnasium Stadium Tertutup Nilai
 Selangor Malaysia


























Monday, 27 June 2011

Cats and Diet



Why does it matter what my cat eats?
Some cats can thrive on the cheapest cat foods and scraps, but not all cats can, and diet is an important way for owners to help their cats live long and happy lives. Not everyone agrees on all aspects of the best way to feed cats, though there are some general areas of agreement. We offer some answers to common questions here, with suggestions for further reading - see References at the end of this article.

Do check with your vet about the dosage if you want to give supplements. You run the risk of giving your cat an overdose of some minerals or vitamins if you don't calculate the dosage correctly, and they may not be necessary at all. Some commercial cat foods do, however, include additional taurine, an amino-sulphonic acid, deficiency of which is associated with retinal degeneration, heart disease and reproductive failure.

Check with your vet about diet too if your cat has a medical condition, since a change in food may help. Cats may have more than one medical condition, and you may need help to work out which takes precedence when making decisions on diet.
Sudden major changes in cats' diets can cause digestive upsets, so make radical changes, like a switch from processed to raw foods, gradually over a week or so, mixing some of the old food with the new. It's especially important to introduce new foods to kittens a little at a time. Kittens can develop allergies if their diets change suddenly, so it's safer to try one food at a time and a little at a time. Once your cat has got used to new foods, you can give him or her a varied diet, which helps to avoid finicky eating, eg refusal to eat if you can't buy a particular brand. Variety is also a good idea in case any particular food is not nutritionally adequate. Foods may be adequate according to today's wisdom, but new discoveries are being made all the time, so if you use more than one brand, you can offset any deficiency in a particular brand.

What are cats' nutritional needs?


There's general agreement that cats need proteins, fats and carbohydrates, as well as vitamins and minerals.
Proteins consist of amino acids and cats need them for cell and tissue growth, maintenance and repair. They can also be metabolised to provide energy. Cats need some 20 amino acids, 11 of which are called essential amino acids, and aren't synthesized in the body. Sources of protein are meat, fish, eggs and milk, but cats need animal tissue in their diets to stay healthy.
Cats also need fats for energy, which are broken down in the body to fatty acids and glycerol. Essential fatty acids are not synthesized by cats. Fat also provides fat-soluble vitamins, and is necessary to maintain coat condition. Fat sources include fish oil, milk and other dairy products and meat fat.
Carbohydrates are also a major source of energy in many species, but cats can survive without any, drawing on protein for any energy shortfalls. Complex insoluble carbohydrates, or fibre, is not digested but is important for the digestive system. Sources are cereal starches, and root vegetables.
Vitamins are needed in small amounts and are important in metabolic chemical reactions. Water soluble vitamins B and C can be synthesized by the cat itself. There are also fat-soluble vitamins, A, D, E and K. Sources of vitamins include fish oil, egg, vegetable oil, cereals, organ meat, yeast, fish and vegetables.
Minerals are split into two groups. Major minerals include calcium, phosphorus, sodium, potassium and magnesium. Micro minerals, or trace elements include iron, zinc, manganese, iodine and copper. They help to maintain pH balance and body fluids, regulate metabolism and are needed for muscle tissue function and conducting nerve impulses. They can be found in dairy products, meat, bone meal, cereals, and vegetables.
Water is vital for many bodily functions like transport of materials between tissues, pH balance, temperature control, blood and lymph medium, electrolyte balance and tissue cell lubrication. Sources include food, particularly canned - which has a high water content, and metabolic water produced from the metabolism of proteins, fats and carbohydrates in the body.
Feeding your cat properly involves more than just checking that food contains proteins, fats, and whatever. The nutrients also have to be accessible to the cat. Cats aren’t able to digest some foods well, for example, grain is not a good source of protein for cats, and does not provide all the amino acids they need. Many cats react to specific foods like cow's milk, and of course will be unable to benefit from nutrients in these foods if they vomit them, or get the runs. Meat and fish are good sources of protein for cats, which are carnivores to a much greater extent than dogs.

What one should look for in a commercial cat food - nutrients, ingredients and pet food labels


You're faced with an array of cat foods at the store. How can you decide what to feed your cat? First, check the labels and see what they tell you. You should find a list of both nutrients and ingredients, together with recommended servings. A typical label on feed bags or tins will include a Typical Analysis - giving moisture content, along with protein, fat, fibre, ash, calcium, phosphorous, magnesium and taurine levels in percentages. It will also list ingredients and provide a suggested daily feeding guide.
Pet food labels do not always say what form the vitamins and minerals are in, which can be a problem because some forms are more bioavailable than others. There are disagreements on what constitutes the correct levels of vitamins and minerals, but feline nutritionists agree that it is possible to give cats an overdose of some vitamins and minerals, so don't try vitamin supplements without advice from your vet. The ratios may also be important, eg ratios of omega 3 fatty acids to vitamin E, and these may be difficult to calculate.
The ingredients lists on can and pack labels can also be very vague when describing meat and fish, and may just describe meat as 'meat and animal derivatives', without saying where meat came from. This can be a problem if your cat is allergic to certain types of meat. Other labels may give information on which animals the meat comes from, but don't specify which body parts of animals are used. Likewise, there is little detailed information on what types of fish, and parts of the fish are used in cat foods containing fish. The important issue should be what is good for cats, rather than whether the source of food revolts you as a human. Cats may eat mice, skin, bone, stomach contents and all, and that is what they are designed to do, however revolting humans might find it. However, some things owners should worry about include drug residues in slaughtered animals used for pet food, and toxins resulting from E coli infections from long-dead animals. One concern about commercial foods is that pet owners have little way of knowing about the quality of ingredients used.
Additives


Many pet foods are now made without artificial additives, and sometimes cats with sensitive stomachs, such as Persians, will do better on such diets. There is disagreement on whether some additives are harmful to cats. ‘Natural’ does not necessarily mean ‘good’. Deadly nightshade is ‘natural’ and can kill people, while preservatives do have a use in ensuring that food retains nutritional value. However, many preservatives and colourings have not been around for long, so their long-term effects are unknown, and you may want to play safe.
Preservatives tend to be used in dry rather than canned commercial food, since canning is a way of preserving food. Once canned food has been opened it should be used on the same day, and any food left over from one meal should be stored in a cool place with a cover. Cats may not like to eat food cold from the fridge, but on hot days it's safer to store the food in the fridge, and you can then take it out half an hour or so before feeding.
There is some disagreement on whether cat-owners should avoid preservatives. Some preservatives, such as BHA may be carcinogenic, but evidence is mixed. Foods without such preservatives may be safer, however, dry commercial food without preservatives will deteriorate fast, a problem if owners are buying in bulk. It's best not to buy in bulk if you use a 'preservative free' dry food, and you need to store it properly in airtight containers, and use it before the ‘consume by’ date. Some foods have vitamin E added as a preservative, and this may be safer than BHA, but is also less effective as a preservative, so you still need to be very careful about using the food before its 'consume by' date.
Common sense says it's best to avoid highly coloured food. Your cat doesn't care what colour his food is, and is quite happy if it is sludge brown. Smell, taste and texture are more important for cats, and colourings are put there for humans. Avoiding highly coloured food means that you don't expose your cat to unnecessary risk. Flavour enhancers should also be avoided, not only because they may be harmful in themselves, but they may also incline cats towards obesity.
Pet food manufacturers themselves may refrain from using additives, but it is unclear whether the ingredients they use already contain additives. The resulting product may thus contain additives, though none has been added in the final manufacturing process. A claim that a product is 'additive free' is then no guarantee of quality, and some additives may be harmless, or even beneficial, but it's a start, since it's more likely that there are no unnecessary colourings and the like. There may also be links between skin allergies and behavioural problems and certain additives, which is one reason why home-prepared foods can be superior.


Dry or wet food?


Dry food is cheaper and more convenient. However, it may also contain more grain and preservatives, because grain is easier to store dry than meat, and canning is a way of preserving food. Cats need to drink more water if they are fed dry food, and are more at risk from dehydration, kidney and bladder problems if fed dried food and deprived of water. It's also easier to overfeed cats on dry food, since it is more concentrated, so you need tobe especially careful about amounts.
Comparing pet foods: maths is important
You need to be able to do some basic maths if you are comparing wet and dry foods, to be able to compare like with like, ie you need to remove moisture from the equation. It's also important to assess amounts per serving - a food may appear to have more of a vitamin if compared by dry weight, but if the servings are smaller, then the amount of the vitamin per serving will be reduced.
Getting information from pet food companies
Clearly, people whose cats have special needs don't have enough information on pack and can labels on which to base an informed decision. Even people whose cats seem to thrive on just about any food may be worried about the lack of information on packs and cans. UK packs may, for example, state that permitted preservatives are used, but not specify which preservatives. It is worth asking the companies for more information. They may not answer your phone calls, letters and emails, but they will know that owners do care about what goes into their cats' food. You will also be able to sort out which companies care about their reputations from the reponses, or lack of responses you get. Some owners believe that expensive foods are better foods, but the cost of pet foods may just reflect the marketing budget, rather than the quality of ingredients, the research carried out into selecting ingredients. However, a company that takes the trouble to answer your queries will care more about consumers that those which ignore you.
Is home-prepared food better than commercial food?


There's no simple answer to this question. Extreme supporters of pet food companies argue that only they are able to provide balanced diets for pets, and they stress risks of overdosing pets on supplements, or feeding cats inappropriate human foods. Yet parents manage to feed children adequate diets, even though children's needs differ from those of adults. Children's diets may be varied throughout the week, so that any imbalance in one meal can be compensated for in the next meal. Cat owners may also vary their cats' diets, for similar reasons. Studies on home-prepared food vs commercial food can be flawed if they group all homecooked food together. There's a world of difference between leftovers, given to a cat because they are cheap, and nutritionally balanced home-prepared feline meals. The worst home-prepared food may be worse than most processed food, which is at least designed for cats, but the best homecooked food can be better because the food can be prepared freshly for each meal. You also have more control over what ingredients go into meals, which is especially important for cats with food allergies, and you have more control over the quality of the ingredients.
Supporters of home-prepared foods argue that widespread usage of commercial food has led to a massive increase in a number of conditions, such as allergies and cancers. However, cancers may be more common these days simply because cats live longer, since they are more likely to be neutered and/or indoor cats, so less likely to roam and be run over. Commercial foods also vary a great deal in terms of quality, and it's as unscientific to lump them all together as it is to lump all 'home-prepared' food together. The main difference between commercial and home prepared foods is that commercial foods are prepared in bulk to be stored and sold, whereas home-prepared foods are made in smaller amounts and tend to be eaten fresh. Many cat owners don't have a lot of choice, and have to use commercial foods due to lack of time. It's difficult to read up on cat nutrition and prepare tasty, well-balanced recipes if you also work full-time. It's worthwhile doing some research on pet foods before making your choice of one or more brands, and sending emails to a few companies asking about their products doesn't take long. You do need to read widely on this topic if you want to feed your cat nothing but home-prepared food, so that you're aware of accepted practice and the debates in feline nutrition. You may not be able to do this, and may prefer to rely on commercial food for much of the time, and you can still prepare the occasional meal yourself without worrying about whether it is perfectly balanced in all aspects. There's nothing wrong with scraps so long as they fit into the cat's diet. You can check out cat recipe books for ideas on how to use your scraps. A home prepared diet could include; chicken, liver, rice, sterilized bone meal, iodised salt and sunflower or corn oil.
What foods should cats always avoid?



Cat are generally much more sensible than dogs about what they eat. They can, however, get digestive upsets from eating garbage, like rotting meat, that contains bacterial toxins. They are also at risk from rats and mice poisoned with rodenticides, so confiscate any rats and mice brought into the home if you live in an area where rodenticides may be in use. Cats can also be poisoned by some plants, so check that your houseplants are not toxic for cats.
What foods should cats only eat in moderation?



Both grain-based foods and cow's milk should only be given in small amounts. Cats aren't designed to be grain-eaters, nor to drink milk with lactose. Some cats seem to drink cow's milk with no adverse reactions, but they can't digest it easily and it's clear that some cats react badly to cows' milk. If your cat reacts by having diarrhoea, stop feeding him or her cow's milk altogether. There are special milk formulations which you can buy for hand rearing kittens, or for helping out queens with a lot of kittens. These formulations can be very expensive when bought from a vet in Britain, but you can buy them much more cheaply in some countries in mainland Europe, such as Spain. So, if you have friends going or living abroad, you could ask them to drop into a vet's and check out the prices.
Can cats eat commercial dog food?


Cats and dogs have different nutritional needs, so it's not a good idea to feed commercial dog foods to cats.
What about raw meat and fish?


Most cats allowed outdoors will supplement their diet with birds, small rodents and even goldfish, so they are already eating raw meat and fish. Cats catch themselves fresh meat, however, and it's important to ensure that meat and fish you give them is fresh, and from a reliable source, eg from a trustworthy local butcher. Toxins from one type of E Coli infection can lead to kidney failure and death. Fish should also be fresh, and it tends to go off faster than meat, so should be eaten on the same day you buy it. Why not share a fish with your cat, if the fish is too big for one cat? It's safer than storing it for the next day.
Are any foods good for sick cats?



The simple answer is yes, but it's worth checking changes with your vet if your cat is ill. There are specially formulated diets for cats suffering from Feline Lower Urinary Tract diseases, and those with chronic renal failure, where there is a risk of losing B vitamins in the high urine output.
Peter Markwell et al note that diet is important for cats with feline lower urinary tract disease, since it affects the volume and acidity of urine, and how concentrated it is. Research has tended to look at acidity levels, and concentration, as a way of dealing with uroliths. Uroliths may be of different types, however, and diets for cats with struvite uriliths may not be appropriate for calcium oxalate uroliths. Cats with lower urinary tract disease may also not suffer from uroliths at all. Increasing the volume of urine can help in tackling uroliths, and can help prevent crystals from forming. Research indicates that increasing the moisture content of cats' diets can more than halve the rate at which they suffer from recurrences of lower urinary tract problems, where the cause of the problem is not clear. Other factors, like urine proteins, may affect the formation of crystals, though more research is needed on this.
Kit Sturges has written on kidney problems, and notes that there is still too little knowledge about what cats with kidney problems should eat, and many recommendations come from work on species other than cats. Some changes, like protein restrictions are needed, but the actual protein level that a particularcat might need is unclear. Not all kidney diseases are the same, and cats are also genetically diverse. Cats may lack appetite when they are first ill, and they may not want to eat low-protein diets. They should eat something, since this is better than their breaking down body protein. Appetite stimulators can help. Older cats may do well on a 'geriatric' diet geared to declining intestinal function, which is a characteristic of older cats.
Tim Watson has studied diet and skin disease, and notes that cats with skin disease may need a change of diet to ensure they are getting enough vitamin E, and the proportion of vitamin E to other ingredients in their diet may also be important.
Vitamin E deficiency can affect cats fed oily fish, and more vitamin E is needed as polyunsaturated fatty acid (PUFA) intake increases. Vitamin B deficiency can also be linked to skin problems, and brewers yeast, or other supplements that provide the whole B group can remedy this. Skin diseases often clear up if better quality food is given to cats, or if more care is given to storing cat food properly, so nutrients are not lost.
How much food should I feed my cat?


There's is no simple answer to this question. Cats vary a lot in terms of how fast they burn up food. Very active outside cats need to eat more, as do pregnant and lactating queens. How much depends a lot on how many hungry kittens they have to feed and on the breed. Other factors that affect how much food cats need include their age and condition.
An adult cat has a daily energy requirement of between 60 and 90 Kcal/kg body weight, depending on rates of activity. At least 25% of the diet should be in protein form. Typically, canned food will provide around 70 Kcal/100g. Cats will generally adjust their daily food intake to suit their energy requirements.
Kittens increase their body weight by around 100g/week in the first few weeks of life. Growth rates at around 4 weeks of age are extremely high and nutritionally demanding. Kittens should have several small meals a day (4 or 5) when they are weaned at 8 weeks, as their stomachs only have a small capacity. They should be fed a diet specially formulated for growth.
Breeding Queens have an energy requirement of 100 kcal/kg/day during gestation (compared to approx 70 kcal/kg pre-mating) and around 240 kcal/kg/day during lactation. The queen will usually start to eat more just a week after successful mating. Frequent meals should be available and even kitten food can be fed, which is concentrated. This helps because the queen's stomach has limited ability to expand, when kittens are taking up room in her abdomen.
Elderly cats will have slightly different dietary requirements, and although an adult maintenance diet can still be fed, it may need to be supplemented with minerals, and vitamins, particularly B vitamins that are water-soluble and will be flushed out as the kidneys become less efficient. There are specially formulated commercially prepared diets for elderly cats, both in dried and canned form. Some elderly cats may prefer to eat canned food if they develop dental problems or lose teeth as they age. There are elederly cats which have very few teeth left and still manage to eat dry cat food very successfully! Older cats may have difficulties digesting food and if this is not due to illness, your vet may prescribe a digestive aid, such as Pro-zyme, a mixture of enzymes and probiotics.
Convalescent cats may not want to eat, but their energy needs increase, so energy-rich food can be warmed up to stimulate interest in food. Otherwise, offer favourite foods or strong smelling good such as pilchards or sardines. There are also specially formulated commercial convalescent and recovery diets available.
Indoor Cats may lead a more inactive lifestyle than cats with access to outdoors, so they will only require around 50 kcals/kg/day. Pet food manufacturers are just starting to introduce specially formulated diets for indoor cats. Royal Canin claims to be the first, and their Indoor 27 takes into account constant coat moulting, lower activity levels leading to slower digestion and the tendency to gain weight.
Obesity is often a problem with indoor cats, and those that prefer not to go out much. Be careful about putting your cat on a crash diet, though - cats subjected to rapid weight loss may lose too much lean tissue.
Cat nutrition books provide tables, as well as recipes for homecooked meals. Go by manufacturers' recommendations, if you use processed foods, and try to select a formulation for your cat's type, age and lifestyle. The amounts recommended are just guidelines, though, not rigid rules. Treats and scraps need to be included in calculations. Adjust amounts if your cat leaves food in his or her bowl, or appears to be getting too skinny or too fat.
Can I give my cat a vegetarian diet?


It is not advisable. Cats are designed to be carnivores, and it is very difficult to feed them properly without giving them meat and fish.

What sort of feeding and watering equipment do I need for my cat?


Food bowls should be wider than the cat’s whiskers, as cats dislike narrow bowls and will usually take the food off them and eat it off the floor! There are many different types of feeding bowls including ceramic, glass, stainless steel and plastic. Plastic bowls may become scratched after a time and therefore more difficult to clean thoroughly. Ceramic, glass and stainless steel are all easier to keep clean, but ceramic and glass are also easy to break! Automatic feeding bowls are useful in emergencies if the cat has to be left alone for longer than usual.
Fresh, clean drinking water should always be available; despite this however, cats may instead prefer to drink from puddles outside in the garden. Cats are very sensitive to the chemicals used to treat water and this, together with the fact that water bowls may also smell of detergent, means they prefer the more ‘natural’ smell of puddles and pools. Therefore, water bowls should be thoroughly rinsed after washing and the water allowed to stand to allow chemicals to dissipate.
Food and water bowls should be washed in detergent and hot water and rinsed thoroughly. There are also anti-bacterial disinfectants available specifically for feeding bowls, such as Friends Feeding Bowl Cleaner and Pet Virkon. Make sure that any disinfectant does not contain phenols, which are toxic to cats.
What can research on cats and diet tell us?


Scientific methods have shown why certain foods are good for cats at different stages of their lives, and in different situations (eg indoor or outdoor cat) but nutritional guidelines can change as scientists find out more about the particular needs of cats. Sometimes studies are only short term, and the long-term effect of a particular ingredient may be unknown. Research by pet food companies can be useful, since, like owners who prepare their own cats' food, the companies want to find out what ingredients to use. However, pet food companies may focus more on different aspects of diet from those which interest pet owners. Palatability, for example, may rank high on a pet food company's list of priorities, so they can claim that cats love their food. However, the owner of an obese cat may want to avoid foods that are very palatable! Use your common sense when reading scientific research - check, for example, that the conclusions are in line with what the article actually says. This is not always the case - sometimes the conclusion and the abstract (summary) sound as though the findings are more reliable than is warranted by the research. Be wary of reports in popular journals, and read the original research if you are able to - it may be slow going at first, but is well worth it. Ask your vet to check out interesting articles you find - vets are better able to interpret research than the average owner. The more you read, though, the better you will be able to make sense of new research, and this is a fascinating area.

Tuesday, 14 June 2011

4th HHP Malaysia Cat Show - 3rd July 2011 @ The Atria Shopping Center

4th HHP Malaysia Cat ShowDate: 3rd July 2011
Venue: The Atria Damansara


Thursday, 9 June 2011

Type of bengal cat




F1: ALC parent and domestic Bengal parent
F2: F1 parent and domestic Bengal parent (has an ALC grandparent)
F3: F2 parent and domestic Bengal parent (has an ALC great-grandparent)
F4: F3 parent and domestic Bengal parent (has an ALC great-great-grandparent)
It is generally acknowledged that in order to be a StudBook Tradition (SBT) cat a Bengal needs to be an F4 or more. That is because F1 through F3 generally have sterile males. Therefore F1 through F3 are traditionally called Foundation cats.
ALC was given its species' Latin name of Bengalensis since the first European to spot a wild ALC saw the kitty swimming in the Bay of Bengal! Any Bengal owner who has enjoyed a bath with their cat will know that this is not just a common myth, but a characteristic that remains to this very day.
Interesting to note that the ALC will dispose of its excretions in water to keep the scent from attracting larger predators. If only we could train our Bengals to use the toilet! Think of the savings in kitty litter!
Foundation Bengals retain a goodly amount of the ALC's intelligence and caution. After all, the ALC thrives in habitats where it is hardly the top predator so it has to be careful and wary in order to survive. Those particular personality characteristics is what makes owning a Foundation cat such a particular challenge. Foundation Bengals are not really known to be excellent pets since they cannot handle much change or turmoil in their lives. They often resort to hiding when anything outside the expected happens, even if it's a loud noise or someone coming over to visit.
I once went to visit a Bengal breeder who lived in a small townhouse. The place was alive with Bengals, running up and down the stairs, and chasing each other up the velvet wallpaper (or the shreds that were left). She told me that she wanted to show me something very special and went to open a drawer from an old chest. An ALC sprang out and flashed across the room to another hiding place, hissing as he went.
They may also bond to one particular person, and if that bond is broken the cat will never recover. Foundation Bengals, like ALCs, consider any form of change traumatic. They are hardly the perfect cat for the month-to-month renter who will soon be moving across the country!
Fortunately SBTs are much closer to regular cats in tolerating change. I once had several SBTs that I moved by air (trauma!) on four separate occasions. In each case, the kitties got to their new digs, spent a couple of hours sniffing around and then just made themselves at home.
Anyone considering a Bengal for a pet should be sure to choose at the very least an F4 or better yet, F6 or more. Your life and your cat's will be much happier.

Monday, 23 May 2011

PERTANDINGAN KUCING SARAWAK 2011 -- 28 May 2011 (Saturday)

PERTANDINGAN KUCING SARAWAK 2011 

(Sarawak Cat Show 2011)

SEMPENA MAJLIS PERASMIAN PAMERAN

“UPTOWN CAT III”

28 MEI 2011 (SABTU)

MUZIUM KUCING DEWAN BANDARAYA KUCHING UTARA

BUKIT SIOL, JALAN SEMARIANG,

93050 PETRA JAYA, KUCHING, SARAWAK.

Tel. No. 082 – 446688 ext. 805

Fax No. 082 – 446414

MASA PERTANDINGAN

10.00 PAGI – 5.00 PETANG

YURAN PENYERTAAN ( UNTUK SEMUA KATEGORI YANG DIPERTANDINGKAN)

1. Ahli Kelab Kucing Sarawak – RM 10/- seekor kucing
2. Bukan Ahli Kelab Kucing Sarawak – RM 20/- seekor kucing

4TH CAT CITY INTERNATIONAL CAT SHOW -- 15 Oct 2011


4TH CAT CITY INTERNATIONAL CAT SHOW

Date: 15 Oct 2011
Venue: Civic Centre, Kuching, Sarawak
Organizer: Sarawak Cat Club

Website: www.sarawakcatclub.com

Pet World 2011 -- 03 to 05 June 2011, Mid Valley Exhibition Centre


Tuesday, 17 May 2011

Let we communicate with our cat

1)   Listen to your cat.

If you watch what your cat is doing when it meows, you may learn to distinguish which meows are associated with which requests (or protests) and eventually know the difference between a "let me out" demand and a "give me food" demand by sound alone. Each cat is different and may have its own variations, but some common meows can include:

  • Short meow: standard greeting.

  • Multiple meows: excited greetings.

  • Mid-pitch meow: plea for something.

  • Drawn-out mrrroooow: a demand for something.

  • Low pitch MRRRooooowww...... a complaint or displeasure.

  • High-pitch RRRROWW!: anger, pain or being fearful.

  • Chatter (rapid teeth-chattering): excitement, frustration.

  • Chirrup (a cross between a meow and a purr with rising inflection): friendly greeting sound, often used by   a mother cat to call to her kittens.

  • Purr: Invites close contact or attention.

  • Hiss: A serious sign of aggression.


  • 2)  Watch your cat.

    Since cats are more "fluent" in body language, certain gestures will accompany vocalizations to reinforce their message.

  • Tail straight up or straight up with a curl at the end: Happy :-) 

  • Tail twitching: Excited or anxious.

  • Tail vibrating: Very excited to see you.

  • Tail fur sticks straight up while the tail curls in the shape of an N: Extreme aggression.

  • Tail fur sticks straight up but the tail is held low: Aggression or frightened.

  • Tail held low and tucked under the rear: Frightened.

  • Dilated pupils: Very playful or excited. It can also mean aggression

  • Slowly blinking eyes: Affection, indicating the cat is comfortable with whoever might be around them.

  • Lifting the nose and tilting the head back slightly: "I acknowledge you." Cats sitting in windows may greet you in this manner as you walk by.

  • Rubbing against you means they are marking you as their own.

  • Wet nose "kiss": An affectionate gesture when the cat taps its wet nose to you.

  • Ears back: Fear, anxiety, or in a very playful mood, also used when sniffing something they want to know more about.

  • Tongue flicks out slightly and licks lower lip: Worried, apprehensive.

  • Rubbing head, flank and tail against a person or animal: Greeting ritual.

  • Head-butting: Friendliness, affection.

  • Face sniffing: Confirming identity.

  • Clawing: A cat will drive his/her claws in and out of you as a sign of happiness or playfulness; either way your cat knows and loves you.

  • Licks you: The ultimate sign of trust. Your cat may consider you to be a part of his/her family, like a mother cleaning her kittens, or you just might have something tasty in your hand!

  • If a cat starts 'attacking' your hair (licking, some small amount of chewing) they are definitely grooming you. This shows they consider you family. It's rare for a cat to do this, but when they do, it means they really love and respect you. If your cat grooms you, consider yourself blessed!


  • 3)  Talk back.

    As mentioned earlier, cats are always learning how to communicate with us, the more we communicate with them, the faster they will learn.

  • Use a slightly raised tone of voice to indicate friendliness and a lowered tone of voice to indicate displeasure or aggression.

  • Repeat the same word, sleep or bed, each time you go to bed, and eventually your cat will begin to associate the repetitive word sound with your actions, and may even get to the bedroom before you. Use the word shower consistently each time you are ready to take one, and eventually your cat may beat you to the bathroom and might even curl up in the sink to wait for you.

  • If you blink slowly when making eye contact with your cat, they will usually respond by coming over to be petted, as it is a very non-threatening gesture.


  • 4)  Be consistent.

    For example, a cat often "asks" before invading someone’s space, and a common blunder many pet owners make is to say "no" and pet the cat at the same time. This is very confusing to the cat. Instead, a very firm "Later" combined with gentle but firm push, without showing affection, will let the cat know that their presence is not desired at this time. Most cats will try 2-3 times to invade a person's space, often from different directions.

  • You can also develop a "command tone" to use with your cat when they are doing something seriously wrong. Use a voice that comes naturally to you, that you can replicate easily, but that is also distinct from your everyday talking voice. If you use this voice sparingly, but seriously, then your cat will learn to associate the voice with the idea that they are being naughty.

  • Another easy "no" command that cats all understand is a quick, sharp, hiss or "spit" sound as is made by their own kind when they themselves say "no."



  •  



    Wednesday, 27 April 2011

    4th HHP Malaysia Cat Show @ 3rd July 2011

    4th HHP Malaysia Cat Show
    Date: 3rd July 2011
    Venue: The Atria Damansara


    Thursday, 21 April 2011

    check it out what mistakes u has made as a pet's owner





    Adopting in Haste

    If you "impulse-buy" a new purse or a new t-shirt, you can almost always return it if it turns out to be the wrong color or the fit isn't right. No harm, no foul; the purse certainly doesn't suffer from its rejection. But adopting a living, sentient creature such as a cat and kitten, to become a family member, is entirely a different matter. Adopting a new cat should be for keeps, so consider carefully before you make that decision.
     
    Ignorance of the Costs of Responsible Cat Care
    Adopting a cat can almost be compared with adopting a child. No responsible adoption agency would release a precious child to someone who was not financially prepared to give him or her the best possible care. While some shelters and cat adoption groups make no such investigation, you owe it to your cat to take care of his basic needs, as well as being prepared for emergencies.

    Failure to Spay or Neuter a New Cat

    Every day I read pleas for help from people who failed to spay or neuter their cats: male cats spraying every available surface of the house or escaping outdoors to fight other male cats; female cats who keep the household awake with their loud yowling during estrus; and worse yet, "surprise" litters of unwanted kittens. The overwhelming cat population problem society faces is reason alone to spay and neuter. Add the medical problems averted by S/N and there is no reason not to do so.

    Neglecting Needed Veterinary Treatment

    Although cats may quickly recover from minor illnesses, they can just as quickly die if an emergency isn't recognized. Cats need certain vaccinations, they need annual examinations, and they definitely need and deserve immediate veterinary care when they become sick or injured. Don't delay in choosing (and using) a good veterinarian.

    False Economy in Cat Food Choices

    Money saved by buying cheap cat food will be spent hundreds of times over on veterinary care. Cats are obligate carnivores, and need a good source of meat protein. They do not need large amounts of grain fillers, especially corn, which is a cheap source of protein used by many cat food manufacturers. Learn how to choose cat food and select the best brands you can afford. You'll find your cat may eat less of the high quality food because they don't have to gorge to get the nutrients they need.

    Declawing Without All the Facts

    Many an innocent new cat owner has been led down the declaw path when a veterinarian asks, "Do you want your kitten declawed when we spay her?" Some veterinarians consider declawing a "routine" surgery, while cat advocates consider it cruel, inhumane, and unnecessary in almost every case. Learn the facts so that you can make an informed decision.

    Allowing a Cat to Roam Free Outdoors

    Many people believe cats deserve the freedom, fresh air, and sunshine of an outdoor life, while many others can offer proof that cats can be very happy and healthy living totally indoors. That the outdoors offers dangers not found inside simply cannot be debated. Fortunately, there are a number of compromises that will give you and your cat the best of both worlds, while keeping him safe and happy.

    Neglecting Litter Box Maintenance

    Cats will consistently use a litter box, if it is kept scrupulously clean, and if the litter is not scented or unpleasant to the cats' feet. Carefully maintaining your cat's litter box will almost guarantee you that you will not be faced with litter box avoidance problems. Caveat: If your cat suddenly starts urinating outside the box despite your careful maintenance, you should immediately suspect a urinary tract problem, which is a veterinary emergency.

    Considering a Cat Property

    When you join the ranks of cat lovers, you'll soon find that we commonly refer to our cats as family members, rather than "pets." While cats may legally be considered "property" in some jurisdictions, the term ends there. You can no more "own" a cat than you can own another human being. If you haven't figured out the distinction by now, your new cat will let you know in quick order. In fact, many cat lovers describe themselves as being owned by their cats!

    Not Allowing a Cat to Be a Cat

    A cat is not a child, and a cat is not a dog. Cats' unique ways make them the endearing creatures they are. On the other hand, some of their traits may cause frustration because we don't understand their needs. Cats instinctively seek out high places and sharpen their claws because they are cats, not because they are stubborn and disobedient. Our job is to accommodate those needs in acceptable ways.
     
    #learn from mistake, have a nice day......
     

    Wednesday, 20 April 2011

    Cat Feline Viruses

    Feline Calici Virus (FCV)

    Feline Calici virus is an upper respiratory cat virus that produces flu-like symptoms in cats. It’s usually spread through contact with saliva or eye and nasal discharge of infected cats. Sometimes it is spread through contact with feces.
    Symptoms include lack of appetite, discharge from the eyes and nose, fever, and stiff and painful joints and muscles. Difficulty breathing may occur and cats may develop pneumonia. Calicivirus can resemble feline rhinotracheitis, but the main symptom that differentiates the two is sores in the mouth, on the lips or tongue, or on the tip of the nose. Some strains of feline calici ivirus also cause sores on the feet.
    Usually supportive care is all that’s needed to treat calcivirus. Antibiotics may be required if secondary bacterial infections set in. Pain medication may also be needed for joint pain.
    There is a vaccine for calcivirus. Cats should be vaccinated as kittens and receive annual booster shots.

    Feline Corona Virus (FCV)

    Feline corona virus is a virus that causes a serious medical condition called feline infectious peritonitis (FIP). It does not cause FIP in all cats, and no one knows why it causes it in some cats but not in others.
    Cats exposed to feline corona virus often show no symptoms at all. Others have mild respiratory symptoms. Once they get the virus, they carry it forever, and can pass it to other cats through their saliva or feces.
    Like other feline viruses, there is no cure or treatment for feline corona virus. There is also no vaccine.

    Feline Infectious Peritonitis (FIP)

    Feline infectious peritonitis is triggered by another one of the feline viruses - coronavirus. It isn't clear why 5% to 10% of cats get FIP, but it is believed that either the virus is caused by an immune response to the coronavirus or the virus itself mutates into FIP. The virus can appear weeks or years after the coronavirus appears and is almost always fatal. There is a new treatment out of Europe using feline interferon omega that has helped to either drive the virus into remission or cure a small number of cats.

    Feline Leukemia (FeLV)

    Despite the name, feline leukemia is not a form of cancer. It is a feline virus that is similar to the HIV virus in people. It affects the immune system, making cats very vulnerable to infections. It is spread through contact with saliva and nasal secretions of infected cats, and also through contact with urine and feces. It is highly contagious.
    In the early stages of the disease, there may be few symptoms. In the later stages, there may be many symptoms, including loss of appetite, weight loss, diarrhea, enlarged lymph nodes, and fever. Cats may have multiple infections, such as skin infections, bladder infections, and upper respiratory infections. Seizures may occur.
    There is no cure for feline leukemia. Cats usually live about two years from the time of diagnosis.
    Your cat should be vaccinated for feline leukemia as a kitten and should receive annual booster shots.

    Feline Panleukopenia (FPV)

    Feline panleukopenia is also known as feline distemper. It is transmitted through contact with urine or feces of an infected cat. Mother cats can also spread the disease to their kittens
    Older cats may not show many symptoms but kittens can become severely ill. Symptoms include severe vomiting and severe, bloody diarrhea. Seizures may also occur. Symptoms usually come on very suddenly.
    There is no cure for panleukopenia, and it is often fatal. Treatment involves supportive care, which includes subcutaneous fluids, medication for vomiting and diarrhea, and medication for seizures.
    Cats should be vaccinated for panleukopenia as kittens and yearly thereafter.

    Rhinotracheitis (Feline Herpesvirus Infection)

    Rhinotracheitis is a virus of the upper respiratory system. It’s spread by contact with secretions from an infected cat’s mouth, nose, or eyes. Symptoms are similar to calcivirus but are usually less severe.
    Medical treatment is usually not required. Symptoms generally go away on their own within a week. Sometimes secondary infections set in and antibiotics are required.
    Symptoms include loss of appetite, coughing (a cat coughing sounds a lot like a cat trying to bring up a hairball), sneezing, runny nose and eyes, and fever.
    There is a vaccine for rhinotracheitis. Some cats will get the virus even if they have been vaccinated, but we still recommend you vaccinate your cat.

    Cat Avian Influenza

    Cat avian influenza is a rare virus. Like it's name implies it is caught when your cat bites into an infected bird. Symptoms are common to many viruses including weakness, fever, and redness in the eyes (conjunctivitis).
    Feline

    Feline Immunodeficiency Virus (FIV)

    This virus is transmitted through a cat bite. The problem with feline immunodeficiency virus is that your cat can be asymptomatic for years (without symptoms) and then the virus gradually weakens the immune system.

    Cat Swine Flu Virus (H1N1)

    The first case of cat swine flu has been confirmed by the U.S. Department of Agriculture. The cat was 13 years old and is the first time the disease has been confirmed in a cat.  For the first time the disease has been passed from a human to a pet.  This was confirmed as a new addition to the list of feline viruses by the University of Iowa.
    Symptoms of Cat Swine Flu include lethargy, difficulty breathing and loss of appetite.  To prevent the spread of swine flu to your dog or cat, it is suggested that the same approach used it protect humans is used to protect cats.  This includes humans in the household getting the H1N1 vaccine, frequent hand washing and coughing or sneezing into the bend of the arm.

    Monday, 18 April 2011

    Care about cat hair

    Cat hair care changes based on the length and type of hair. Long hair requires combing while short hair needs less care. Combing and brushing will help avoid hairballs. Diet such as the proper amount of protein intake and vitamins contribute to maintaining a healthy coat.

    Care for Different Cat Hair Types

    It is a good idea to begin brushing your cat's hair from the time it is a kitten so that your cat gets used to it. This will help remove hair that has been shed that can cause the coat to mat. Brushing contributes to a clean look by stimulating the release of protective oils. It also keeps your cat from ingesting any hairs which leads to hairballs.

    Different breeds have different types of hair such as:

    Requires long hair brushing with a  (7.5 x 1 inch coarse/fine) to avoid having the hair mat. Groom as frequently as every day to keep the hair from shedding, but not falling off. The teeth of the comb should reach all the way to the skin. You might also want to consider a cat lion cut which keeps the hair short with exception of the face and the mane.

    If the hair mats, try gently picking at it with the teeth of the comb. Do not cut the mat out since it is very easy to injure the skin.

    You can start buy combing the hair and then finish with a brush. 

    • Close Coated: You can care for short or close-coated cat hair by lightly moving a soft chamois over the coat. 
    • Short Hair: requires little combing or bathing. Use a bristle brush or a 4 inch fine/medium (also called a greyhound style brush). Brush against the direction of the coat at first and then finish by reversing and brush in the direction of the coat.

      Harder brushes help to avoid knows. Softer brushes are good for sleek coats. 
    • Mutant - short curly hair or coats that are woolly (eg; require wire pin brushes that are with or without rubber tips. Wire-pin brushes are the preferred choice for cats with medium to long hair and those with curly or woolly coats, such as the Rex breed. Combs also work well for curly coats.

      A
      Flea comb can work well for delicate areas such as the face.

    Alternative Cat Hair Brushes

    If you cat does not like it when you brush its hair, there are some alternatives.  Each can be purchased by following the links below for approximately $5.
    • Grooming Glove This glove is worn on your hand. It has prongs that work as a brush as you stroke your cat. Gentle way to remove lose hair, particularly if your cat sheds.
    • Rubber Curry Brush The palm brush is hidden in your palm. The rubber bristles are soft and lets you brush your cat without your cat really knowing. Helps add a sheen to the coat.
    • Wall Grooming Comb You can buy a brush that attaches to the wall. Your cat will rub up against the wall and and brush itself. It has a small compartment for catnip which encourages cats to rub against the comb's teeth. Great to catch hair before it sheds.

      Another trick is to store brushes in a bag with a few pieces of catnip.

    Cat Hair Shedding


    All cats shed hair throughout the year. The amount of shedding depends on where the cat lives, nutrition and health. Sunlight and artificial indoor light affects when cats shed with outdoor cats shedding more in the spring and fall and indoor cats shed throughout the year.
    Cat hair grows quickly and then slows until it stops. New hair growth then starts pushing out the older hair, causing shedding.
    Check your cat's health with a veterinarian if you notice excess shedding.

    Cat Hair Health and Nutrition


    Protein and Cat Hair Care
    The hair itself is made of protein. If your cat's diet doesn't contain enough protein from animal (chicken fat) and plant sources (vegetable oils such as corn and soy), then the hair could be too dry, fall out or feel brittle to the touch.
    Most commercial cat foods contain adequate amounts of two fatty omega-6 fatty acids are important for coat health in cats. Linoleic acid helps the coat from becoming dull and dry. It also helps avoid hair loss and greasy skin. Cats also need arachidonic acid for normal skin and coat health.
    Kittens require that 30% of the diet be protein and adult cats should have 25-30%. If your cat is getting a balanced diet and you still see problems with his or her coat, then consider a fish oil based fatty acid supplement such as Nordic Naturals Omega-3 Pet - Gel Caps

    Vitamins, Minerals, Herbs and Cat Hair Care

    Vitamins that metabolize protein and contribute to health skin and coats. Most premium commercial cat foods contain adequate amounts of these vitamins:
     * Vitamin A: For growth and repair of skin

    *  Vitamin E:
    Protects skin cells from oxidant damage

    *  Vitamin C:
    Helps heal wounds

    * Biotin:
    Helps the body use protein

    * Riboflavin(B2):
    For fat and protein metabolism

    * Zinc:
    For fat and protein metabolism

    * Copper:
    Part of tissue pigment and protein synthesis
    Many owners and holistic veterinarians prefer that the vitamins come from herbal and natural sources. These are some of the herbs to look for:

    * Equisetum arvense (Horsetail): Has high silica content essential in the maintenance of healthy and strong skin and fur.

    * Taraxacum officinalis (Dandelion): Source of vitamins and minerals, including Vitamin A, D, C, various B Vitamins, iron, lecithin, silicon, potassium, magnesium, zinc and manganese.

    * Arthrospira platenis (Spirulina): Has nutritive properties, protein, vitamins (including B12 and folic acid) and carotenoids.

    * Fucus vesiculosis: contains minerals, iodine, potassium, magnesium, calcium, and iron. Regular use will also promote skin and coat condition.
    * Kalium sulphate (Kali. Sulph.): helps cell membranes, and maintain balance in the skin and underlying tissue.
    A supplement made for this purpose and that is worth exploring is Skin and Coat Tonic. It has a reputation for helping cats maintain a healthy skin and a glossy coat using a combination of the ingredients listed above.

    Cat Hair Loss


    Cat hair loss has multiple causes including parasites, illness, allergy and in 10% of cases due to stress. To diagnose feline hair loss your veterinarian will first do an examination to look for a parasitic cause such as fleas or mites (mange). Once these are ruled out they will look for allergies such as from foods or something in your cat's environment.
    Feline hair loss can also can be attributed to diseases such as Diabetes Mellitus, tyriod disease, and Cushing's disease of the pituitary or endocrine system. Other symptoms that are clues to the reasons for hair loss in cats include excessive urination, excessive appetite and other changes in behavior.